For now, this is sort of a journal. I'm incorporating some interesting "events" in my day-to-day living, but for the most part, you won't find much that's spectacular to look at here.
I used some of the items that are on the Weekly Deals list. If you want any of these items at 25% off, act fast because this is the last day of the sale. If you order online, please use hostess code: HEANKVVG Or, let me know by 8:00pm tonight if you want to take part in a group order.
First, use your Paper Snips
to cut between the petals on the Daffodil Delight layers so they are
separated, but still attached at the center. Press down with your
stylus along the middle of each petal and then work out to the edges.
The petals will start to curl up a little. You can vary how much the
petals curl by how hard you press and how many times. I also did the
centers of each layer. Make sure to poke in a random manner so you
don't end up with straight lines.
Here is this week's TSSC sketch that I used for inspiration. This card
is portrait, but I changed mine to a landscape orientation. I felt that
worked better with my design.
Rio Scarf from Michael Sellick. This crocheted scarf is made with the crocodile stitch and is perfect for those who love a little challenge. You can change colors on your own or use a multicolored yarn.
Rio Scarf
Materials:
Size J or 6.0 MM Crochet Hook
4 Balls 3.5 oz or 100 g Bernat Mosaic
Yarn Vivid
Substitute Option: If you don't have access to Bernat Mosaic Yarn and don't wish to purchase it online, check your favorite store for Red Heart Unforgettable Yarn. It transitions in color just the same. You will need 4 balls of Unforgettable if you are going to substitute.
Scarf measures 80" long x 7.5" wide.
Notes:
You will be making this scarf in two different sections and then sewing them together. You will do this so that the Crocodile Stitch is going down on both sides of your body. The seam for the two coming together is at the back of your neck.
Each section will get 2 yarn balls. Crochet with those until they are finished up. When finishing, ensure your last row is a scale stitch and not the back supporting section.
If your ball has a knot and tie due to manufacturing, simply cut out the knot and crochet as normal. IF the knot has two different yarn colours tied together, ensure you crochet this on the back supporting section and not the scale. This way you can guarantee the entire scale going across is looking consistent in colour and not suddenly changing colour that is visibly noticeable on the scales.
Instructions:
CH 21
DC 3rd stitch from the hook. *CH 2 and skip 2 stitches on the chain. DC twice into the next stitch. Repeat * for entire chain.
Turn (This causes the stitches to be in groups of two and is the foundation behind the scales for the entire project.
CH 3, DC 4 times down post of the first DC of previous row. CH 1, DC 5 times up the next post, *CH 1, Skip next two DC posts, DC 5 times down the next DC Post, CH 1, DC 5 times up the next DC Post.
Repeat * for the remainder.Turn (You will have 4 scales).
CH 1 and SL ST into the gap space between the 2 DC Posts below (this prevents the scale from being forced to collapse on itself). Ch 3, 1 DC into the space between the two DC Posts below. *CH 2, 2 DC into the next space between the two DC posts below.
Repeat * all the way across.
Turn.
These scales will fall directly between the scales seen on the row below. CH 1, SK first 2 DC posts and immediately DC 5 times down next DC Post, CH 1, *DC 5 times up the next DC Post. CH 1, SKIP next two DC Posts and immediately DC 5 Times Down the next DC Post. CH1 Repeat * to the end.
Last stitch you will do a single crochet into the gap space between the final two DC Posts. (You will have only 3 scales across).
Repeat Step 4 - 6 for two yarn balls. Fasten off when both balls are used.
Side 2 will be identical to what you have done above. Complete an identical section. When finished, sew the two together by sewing them on the underside of the scales.
My example ended the scales with three scales on both sides, yours may vary depending on yarn length. You may want to ensure both sides of the scarves have the same scale counts to look consistent.
Read more at http://www.favecrafts.com/Crochet-Hats-Scarves-Gloves/Rio-Scarf#BW4kmm2KyOtDgwKD
This colorful and festive Rio Scarf from Michael Sellick. This crocheted scarf is made with the crocodile stitch and is perfect for those who love a little challenge. You can change colors on your own or use a multicolored yarn.
rio scarf
Materials:
Size J or 6.0 MM Crochet Hook
4 Balls 3.5 oz or 100 g Bernat Mosaic Yarn Vivid
Substitute Option: If you don't have access to Bernat Mosaic Yarn and don't wish to purchase it online, check your favorite store for Red Heart Unforgettable Yarn. It transitions in color just the same. You will need 4 balls of Unforgettable if you are going to substitute.
Scarf measures 80" long x 7.5" wide.
Notes:
You will be making this scarf in two different sections and then sewing them together. You will do this so that the Crocodile Stitch is going down on both sides of your body. The seam for the two coming together is at the back of your neck.
Each section will get 2 yarn balls. Crochet with those until they are finished up. When finishing, ensure your law row is a scale stitch and not the back supporting section.
If your ball has a knot and tie due to manufacturing, simply cut out the knot and crochet as normal. IF the knot has two different yarn colours tied together, ensure you crochet this on the back supporting section and not the scale. This way you can guarantee the entire scale going across is looking consistent in colour and not suddenly changing colour that is visibly noticeable on the scales.
Instructions:
CH 21
DC 3rd stitch from the hook. *CH 2 and skip 2 stitches on the chain. DC twice into the next stitch. Repeat * for entire chain. Turn (This causes the stitches to be in groups of two and is the foundation behind the scales for the entire project.
CH 3, DC 4 times down post of the first DC of previous row. CH 1, DC 5 times up the next post, *CH 1, Skip next two DC posts, DC 5 times down the next DC Post, CH 1, DC 5 times up the next DC Post. Repeat * for the remainder.Turn (You will have 4 scales).
CH 1 and SL ST into the gap space between the 2 DC Posts below (this prevents the scale from being forced to collapse on itself). Ch 3, 1 DC into the space between the two DC Posts below. *CH 2, 2 DC into the next space between the two DC posts below. Repeat * all the way across. Turn.
These scales will fall directly between the scales seen on the row below. CH 1, SK first 2 DC posts andimmediately DC 5 times down next DC Post, CH 1, *DC 5 times up the next DC Post. CH 1, SKIP next two DC Posts and immediately DC 5 Times Down the next DC Post. CH1 Repeat * to the end. Last stitch you will do a single crochet into the gap space between the final two DC Posts. (You will have only 3 scales across).
Repeat Step 4 - 6 for two yarn balls. Fasten off when both balls are used.
Side 2 will be identical to what you have done above. Complete an identical section. When finished, sew the two together by sewing them on the underside of the scales. My example ended the scales with three scales on both sides, yours may vary depending on yarn length. You may want to ensure both sides of the scarves have the same scale counts to look consistent.
Read more at <a href="http://www.favecrafts.com/Crochet-Hats-Scarves-Gloves/Rio-Scarf#RHuV7Eso2YyEGcSD">here</a>
Hand Held Punches Used - Eyes: Circle Punches - 1- 3/8", 1", 1/2", Patch - Small Oval Wooden Leg - Word Window
Digital Punches Used - Main Body and 'Shirt' - Owl Builder Head Scarf - Circle and Heart combined Hair - Tasteful Trim Earring - Circle Hand Hook - Part of the number 9 from 'Alphabet Soup' combined with the Oval Punch Wings - Scallop Oval
Virtue Natural! We spend our days hand-crafting
natural and organic skincare for our online shop at Etsy. The rest of
the time we’re dreaming up new product recipes, having picnics along the
Kern River, writing for the Virtue Natural blog,
playing guitar and knitting the night away! (I do the knitting…)When I
was invited to do a guest-post here, I just about swooned! It’s a real
honor – thank you Mariel and Jessica! So, anyone want to learn to make
some soothing foot soak? Let’s get to it! My goal when designing this recipe, was to limit the ingredients to
what we could find in an average supermarket. It’s just amazing how many
lovely homemade skincare items we can put together with a simple
supermarket shopping list!
Let’s get started.
Here’s what you will need to make your handmade foot soak:
- 1 cup sea salt (a great alternative would be Kosher salt) - 1 cup Epsom salt (usually found in the personal care/pharmacy aisle) - 2 Tbsp peppermint tea (Be careful not to confuse this with
“peppermint flavored” tea: the tea should be 100% peppermint leaves.
Tip: if you can’t find it in bulk, buy a box of tea-bags, cut them open
and measure!) - 4 tsp pure peppermint extract - 3 tsp pure lemon extract - 1 tsp olive oil - 1 tsp cornstarch - 1 tsp baking soda - measuring cups and spoons - mixing bowl and spoon
To begin, combine the sea salt and Epsom salt in your mixing bowl.
When the two salts are completely blended, add olive oil, peppermint
extract and lemon extract. Stir each time you add an ingredient, making
sure to break apart any large chunks of salt with your spoon. Once these
liquid ingredients have been fully incorporated, your salt mixture will
look like moist sand (and it will smell pretty good too!)
Now it’s time to add the cornstarch and baking soda. Again, blend
thoroughly, breaking apart any large clumps of baking soda or
salt.Almost done! Now add the final ingredient – the peppermint leaves.
(I add this last, because I’ve found that adding them early in the
process causes the leaves to bruise and give off their green color to
the salt.) Stir the leaves in until they are fully blended with the salt
mixture. Go ahead and take a deep breath while you’re at it – it should
have a very refreshing scent!
At this point, if you’re planning on keeping the foot soak for
yourself, store it in an air-tight container so it stays fresh. If the
container is not air-tight, the beautiful aroma of the extracts and the
peppermint leaves will fade. (The soak will still be useful, just not as
charming!) If you’re planning on giving it away as a gift, try spooning it into
an ordinary Mason jar. Be creative. Ribbons, tags, whatever you want to
add to give the soak a loving, handmade touch. And how to go about soothing those tired tootsies? Fill a
small basin with warm water and stir in ¼ to ½ cup of foot soak. Stir it
to dissolve the salts, and soak your feet for 10-15 minutes. Ahhhh… So what are some of the benefits of this handmade foot soak, you ask?
In my opinion, the best part is that it’s all-natural! No chemical
fragrances or artificial colors and preservatives (remember ladies,
whatever you put ON your skin absorbs INTO your skin!) Secondly, it’s
very effecting at relaxing sore muscles (thanks in part to the
magnesium-rich Epsom salts.) It’s also refreshing (peppermint tea!) and
softening (olive oil!) and aromatic. Being the all-natural skincare
fanatic that I am, I’ve found this recipe to be a real winner, and I
hope you do too!
I finally decided how I would hide the clips I used for the ornament wall tree
I made for Christmas. I previously had a very large picture
hanging there but I don't think it would have covered all the clips.
The command clips are easy to remove but I don't want to go
through using a level to hang them again next Christmas. Besides, I
wanted a change for that area. Something new and different.
I remember seeing a video
by Aileen's (tacky glue) daughter, Eco Heidi, on how to make pretty
wall art (butterflies) that has the look of metal. It was a simple
technique that transformed kitchen aluminum foil into the look of
burnished metal. I liked the idea, but wanted something bold and
colorful. Like a wall of flowers. I decided to cut out different sizes
of flowers from foam board and add an embossing effect with jute
rope to emphasize the petals. Then cover and glue the shape with foil
and paint them different hues of purple, including the 2014 color of the
year, radiant orchid or something like it.
Here's a picture tutorial on how I did it: Using foam board,
Styrofoam, foam, tops and cardboard circles for the flower centers, jute
rope, hot glue, Aileen's tacky glue, heavy duty aluminum foil, exacto
knife, foam brushes, scissors, acrylic paints and liquid gloss varnish.
1. & 2. I made my
own flower patterns using round objects such as plates, tops and plastic
cups on the foam board and cutting them out using an exacto knife. I
realized that the first flower I made looked rather strange or
wonky with just four petals and a hole in the middle. I made sure the
rest had five or six petals and no holes. 3. I glued the bottom of a top to
the center for this flower. I liked the look of using Styrofoam balls
cut in half and slightly flattened best. For one, I glued on small bead
balls to the Styrofoam for added texture. 4. The jute rope was cut into strips and hot glued on. 5. It's best to make as many
flowers at one time since this project can be very time consuming,
depending on how many flowers you want to have. 6. & 7. Tacky glue was used to keep the foil on and smoothed out first by hand, and then with a plastic spoon. 8. Excess foil was trimmed away. 9. The remaining foil was glued to the back and smoothed down, too. 10. The facing foil was smoothed down again, especially around the edges with the back of a plastic spoon and allowed to dry. 11. The flowers were
painted with different types of acrylic paints I had on hand. Coverage
was better with the metallic and some of the cheaper brands, believe
it or not. And in some areas, the foil peeked through, adding to the
texture. I learned to be careful handling the flowers after the paint
dried. Adhesion was not that great on foil. I painted on a liquid
glossy varnish to add sheen and protection to the paint and finish. It
was too cold outside to do any spray painting with a primer or sealer. 12. I randomly placed the finished flowers on the wall. Adding more as they were made or needed. For this project I used
five sheets of foam board from the dollar store and I had most of the
paint on hand. I think it cost less than ten dollars to make the
flower wall décor. I worked off and on for about three weeks, starting
just after the holidays and between vacation and getting sick. I hung the light weight flowers using the same clips and adding a few more in different spots. Art work can be so expensive and it's difficult finding exactly what you want.
Getting creative is always the best way to go!
I love, love, love the look and feel this gives the room!
With pops of my favorite colors added to a stark white wall . . .
. . and especially complimenting the area rugs that are in place. There's lots of light
coming in from the windows and sliding door that adds to the awesome
atmosphere this wall décor has created!
I used the large oval, extra-large oval, and
the 1" square (drumsticks) punches. The drum was textured using the
Chevron embossing folder and I finished it off with Basic Rhinestones
around the rim, and Daffodil Delight Candy dots for the drumstick ends.
My card base is Whisper White with layers of Pacific Point, Daffodil
Delight, and Silver Foil sheet piece. The sentiment is from the
Perfectly Penned stamp set. This card uses all current Stampin'Up! product.
